On the one hand, my foodstuffs were certified organic, and labelled as such under the strict guidelines that apply to organic food standards & labelling. On the other hand, my organic shampoo, although labelled organic, contained a list of ingredients that ecological activists and other ‘safe cosmetics’ campaigners have questioned as potentially harmful to the user or the environment.

In Ireland, the body responsible for organic food labelling has neither the resources nor the responsibility to set and regulate standards and monitor labelling on “organic” personal care products. Thus, the ‘organic’ cosmetics and body care industry is open to promoting products as organic, while the same products may also contain ingredients that are of a chemical and synthetic nature.

As I stood my products side by side on the kitchen table, I realised that the word ‘organic’, has come to represent very different sets of standards. From a personal care perspective, it means whatever the manufacturer says it means, while from the consumer point of view, it has come to represent a lifestyle choice!!

Many ‘organic’ and personal care products and cosmetics are finding their way into the health food stores and other outlets on the back of the growing markets for certified organic foods. However, in the absence of regulatory standards and appropriate labelling, the consumer is left to decipher the codes and ingredients listed in an effort to ascertain the content, quality and standard of the product they intend to buy. Most consumers switching to a more ecological way of life would be forgiven for assuming that the “organic” cosmetic product they wish to purchase is chemical free and really organic – in it’s most wholesome term. On stepping into most health stores and organic outlets, the cosmetic and body care section attracts most of us with front label terminology such as ‘organic, botanical extracts, all natural etc’ However, the standards that apply on one side of the shop to organic foods, do not always apply to the other side of the shop – cosmetics and body care products.

Where the term ‘certified organic ingredients’ is displayed, it can sometimes mean that one or two of the ingredients in the product are certified organic. Yet id does not mean that the product is free from chemicals and ingredients that are synthetically derived and other suspect shelf life extenders etc.

So, what was actually in my organic shampoo? The following is part of the ingredient list with my additions, which may help to explain the origin and function of each ingredient.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate;

Sometimes listed as SLS is basically a synthetic detergent. It is sometimes listed on the label as ‘coconut oil’ as it “comes from the coconut” (another story in labelling, processing and synthetic extracts). However, pure unprocessed coconut oil is not SLS. Research has indicated that this particular ingredient can “form carcinogenic nitrogen compounds when combined with specific ingredients. Irritating to eyes, skin and lungs” (Antczak, 2001). “Harmful if swallowed and may cause damage to eyes” (Antczak, 2001). And on the balancing side of the argument – from the American College of Toxicology “ Both Sodium and Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate appear to be safe in formulations designed for discontinuous, brief use, followed by thorough rinsing from the surface of the skin, in products intended for prolonged contact with the skin, concentrations should not exceed 1%.” Given that this substance is often the first ingredient listed on the label, we may assume that it constitutes more than 1% of the overall ingredients. My friends tell me that my only solution is to develop an ingenious device which will allow me to have “discontinuous” contact with practically everything in the bathroom!!! Your ideas for developing such a device are also most welcome!!!!

Cocamide DEA;

A semi -synthetic compound which functions as an emulsifier, foam booster, thickening and binding agent – amongst other things. DEA, MEA, MIPA and PEG are essentially groups of synthetic fatty acids called alkyloamides.

“Alkyloamides contain a free amine that can combine with formaldehyde – releasing preservatives in cosmetics, and there is concern that these may form carcinogens” (Begoun 2003).

“May cause contact allergies and contact dermatitis in some individuals. DEA residues are cancer causing suspects currently under investigation” (Antczak 2001).

So what are these ingredients doing in the bathroom, where we freely use them on a daily basis, which is not ‘discontinuous’ given that we mostly shower on a daily basis, bathe the children and so on?

Furthermore, what are they doing in an ‘organic’ product?

The human skin is a living and dynamic system. It has the most remarkable ability to absorb applied products partially or completely into the bloodstream. Thus the success of skin patches for specific treatments etc. “Up to 60% of the products we use on our skin are absorbed and deposited into the circulatory system.” (Fairley, 2001).

In fact, once we understand how the skin works, essentially an access point into the body, we would probably be much more selective about the cocktails of chemicals we use on it daily, through both our body care/bath/shower products and our colour cosmetics.

Across the globe, interest and demand for organic cosmetic products is on the increase. Yet who decides and defines the standards we apply to regulating the industry? What does organic really mean? What is the definition of a ‘synthetic’ ingredient and how do we begin to unravel, understand and discuss in the public domain, the relevance of chemicals in the personal body care industry?

The series of Organic or Chemistry articles in the coming issues of The Local Planet, will outline what is being done in other countries, what definitions are really about and will hopefully, open the debate about what we can do here in Ireland. Meanwhile, check out the Irish Campaign section of www.bluerosewaterford.com for more information on the Irish campaign for safe cosmetics.

A free public service has also been launched on this website. Check out the Ingredient Watch section, and you will be able to locate a variety of ingredients readily found in cosmetics and body care products. The section will give a full breakdown of the origin, function and general concerns regarding each one.

Should you wish to contact me with your feedback, concerns, issues regarding the above article or the development of a campaign, please feel free to contact me at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it